The Gladwin Family Journal
Snapshots, Reels and Observations from November, by Peter Gladwin
A Time to Slow Down
Reports about re-wilding, regenerative farming and environmental sustainability make it sound as if this is something newly invented. However, civilization has been caring for the land in order to produce food for over 12,000 years. It is only in the last 200 years that a disregard for the long-term welfare of the countryside has become an issue.
We had a marvelous conversation the other day with an agricultural insurance broker that really highlighted how differently we think about land use now. We explained that we rear livestock; we grow things including grapes and making wine; and we encourage visitors to come and experience what we do. This apparently spanned three different departments within their insurance business and would therefore be challenging to give us a quote!
Needless to say we went elsewhere but it does illustrate what has gone wrong in farming. Small scale farming must use land in multiple ways balancing grazing with crops, horticulture with poultry; set-aside with cultivation - all working in harmony with nature.
The "slow food" movement started in the mid 1980’s and continues to thrive across the globe. Their mission is to promote fairness for both consumers and producers; embracing local traditions; encouraging biodiversity and celebrating the simple pleasure of eating.
This has now been extended to wine - allowing time to nurture new vines before even taking a crop, fermenting with gentle care, maturing and treating wine with the love and appreciation it deserves.
There writes a winemaker!
"Slow Wine"
- Vines taking root for first 3 years
- Patience and hand picking
- Gentle pressing and gradual ferment
- Maturation in oak barrels
- Recycled glass, authentic corks
- Years on the lees
- Opened with care
- Look, smell, taste, then savour
This Month's Food Champion: Common Sorrel
Oliver has been out on the banks of the river Arun in search of the (not so) Common Sorrel. Watch a video of him in action and then try our recipe for a delicious Sorrel Salsa Verde.
See Oliver seeking Sorrel on the Pulborough Brooks →
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IN THE WILD
• Winter Chanterelles
• Wild Venison, Pheasant & Partridge
• Common Sorrel, Hairy Bittercress• Pine Needles & Juniper
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FROM THE COAST
• Oysters, Shrimps & Lobster
• Sea Kale, Sea Lettuce, Dulse
• Cod, Whiting, Haddock -
FROM THE LAND
• Russet & Braeburn Apples
• Cauliflowers, Romanesco, Salsify & Hispi Cabbage
SEASONAL RECIPES
We lead this month with Sorrel Salsa Verde - our version of an ancient recipe. Mini Butternut & Thyme Tarte Tatins with a caramelised top are for sharing with guests over the festive season. You don't have to share the indulgent Double Chocolate Pistachio Brownies but you'll make friends if you do.
What's in your glass?
A Local & Wild Festive Expedition
We’re often asked to suggest seasonal pairings of our Local & Wild restaurant dishes with Nutbourne wines. So here’s a tongue-in-cheek guide for a big night out in London town.
Starting at The Shed in Notting Hill, we’re cracking open a Nutty Wild, because it always feels like a party in the long rustic dining room. Sip pink fizz as you dip Rosemary Pigs in Blankets into Honey Mustard Crème Fraîche.
On into Soho to Sussex restaurant - clink a coupé of Nutty Vintage 2018, whilst tucking into Partridge Popcorn with spiced plum ketchup - a toast to date night.
Next to Rabbit British Bistro, perhaps with a little time off for Christmas shopping along the King’s Road- – we’re savouring a ruby red Pinot Meunier with South Downs Venison straight off the flame grill.
Through Chelsea to The Pig’s Ear – Enjoy a fruity glass of chilled Blush with your pan-fried Goat’s Cheese & Cranberry Jam as you ponder entering the next Tuesday night pub quiz.
Then finally to The Black Lamb, Wimbledon Village – a classic Sticky Toffee Pudding awaits. Wash this down with the newly released Nutbourne Forager 2024 - an amazing pink dessert wine made from Pinot Gris grapes that really does capture the spirit of Christmas
…and of course, at every Local & Wild resto, the team are ready and waiting with a glass of Sussex Reserve.
“A TASTE OF THE ENGLISH COUNTRYSIDE” together with a Mushroom Marmite Éclair - it’s the classic combination we know and love!
You can WIN a magnum of Sussex Reserve for your festive celebrations at home - our iconic field blend in a stunning tall flute bottle is perfect for sharing with your guests over the holiday.
A 'Chattering' of Starlings
Each Autumn, starlings gather in the trees at Nutbourne. The birds swirl through the sky above the winery, forming patterns and chatting away - these are known as murmerations. They are stunning but we’re never quick enough to capture the spontaneous flight formations as they flock together over the vines.
Nutbourne takes Copenhagen by storm - a snowstorm!
Olivia has been in Copenhagen to support Danish shop Pelican Wines with launching the Nutbourne range in this amazing Scandinavian city. Her hosts were incredibly organized and charming, with a comprehensive three day programme of dinners and tastings.
On her first Night: "We headed to fine dining restaurant Ambassaden & Konsulatet (so named as it’s opposite the American Embassy and Russian Consulate) - which has very Bacchanalian paintings of naked nymphs on the ceiling. The guests all enjoyed the wines and the food was delicious - halibut, ceviche, guinea fowl and 14 year old cheddar on the cheese platter. Lots of orders were placed on the night and the restaurant is now going to stock the Sussex Reserve and Nutty Vintage.
Day 2: Snowy sightseeing - nearly 20,000 steps walking past the classic Copenhagen view of Nyhavn harbour, up to The Little Mermaid statue, through Christmas markets in town and around the equivalent of the National Gallery (Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek).
The evening tasting was at a Fintech company in the ‘new’ part of town, Nordhavn that was an industrial port and is now like the area around Battersea Power Station. A bankers wine club - all very engaged and lovely.
Danish lager afterwards at Aelsk bar bistro, close to the Pelican shop - the owner Martin is going to stock SR and says he is the ‘Pamela Anderson’ of selling new wines (!)
The final night's tasting at a tapas bar was with a Danish winefluencer - the crowd of locals who all ordered more wines included a Sussex girl from Ditchling, who'd fallen in love with a Dane and enjoyed a taste of home!
Skal! Olivia"
The Battle of the Sticks
Back to all this sustainable best practice - nurturing the young plants, livestock grazing alongside, wooden stakes instead of metal, etc. It is all very well, but sometimes having the sheep among the vines is just a pain. Each morning I reset the vine guards and re-clip the support sticks back into place, then by the following day the flock has charged through the new planting and knocked a load of them over again.
Worst still- my 4-legged co-workers categorically refuse to swap jobs!
Photography by: Bridget Gladwin, Simon Wheeler, Ed Dallimore, Catherine Frawley, Nic Crllly-Hargrave, Holly Farrier, Olivia Thomas and Rachel Jasper. Illustrations by Peter Gladwin.