The Gladwin Family Journal
Snapshots, Reels and Observations from July, by Peter Gladwin
From Tranquillity to Catastrophe
A perfect summers’s evening, the heat of the day is slowly receeding and the sun lowering to bath the landscape in a golden hugh. The bales sit like scuptures dotted across the field, highlighted in the sunlight, with shadows twice their own size.
After a baking day of hay making Gregory was content with his work. We stood on the fence line just soaking in the tranquility and magic of the scene. A stork randomly flew in to join other birds in their treasure hunt for small mammals revielled in the low cut stubble. We called it a day and reluctantly left this epitomy of English countryside to think about some supper and a very cold drink.
An hour later the phone rings - billowing smoke has been spotted from the tractor and baler in the middle of the field. By the time we dash back there are 20ft flames erupting into the sky, a circle of fire burning through the stubble. Fortunately firefighters soon arrive and the fire is contained with no lasting harm except some very expensive equipment, burnt to a cinder.
But the peace and emotion of that post harvest moment have been spoilt, the lasting memory tarnished with danger and reality that any of us can meet at the most unexpected time.
Business As Usual in Sunny Soho
I was speaking to the daughter of one of our neighbours about her ponies. Apparently when this summer’s first heatwave hit they were extremely upset about it - panting, sweating and demanding hose-downs twice a day. As
temperatures of 30°C plus have become the norm, these equestrian lovelies have fully adjusted and now think nothing of basking in the midday sun.
The same is true of our central London clientle at Sussex Restaurant in Soho. When the sun first shone the whole city insisted on drinking on street corners or dine alfresco breathing in the petrol fumes on busy London streets. This desire has disappeared as quickly as it arrived and busness has quickly returned to normal. A cool air-conditioned interior serving delicious light summer fayre such as Cucumber Gazpacho, Atlantic Prawn Ceviche, Tomato & Chili; or London Burrata, Garden Peas, Radish & Mint; or Hake Fillet, Potato Vinaigrette, Dorset Mussels, Pickled Onion - all washed down with chilled Nutbourne Blush 2025, is
proving extremely popular.
Sussex Soho got off to a rocky start. We opened just three months before Covid and then had 18 months of closing and reopening according to the government directives. It is now firmly established as a West End favourite. Classic stylish interior, 2 private dining areas and famed for its classic Beef Wellington and of course, fine English wines.
Harvest Farm Feast
Friday 18th & Saturday 19th September
I can’t believe we are thinking about harvest already, but the grapes are swelling every day and if the heat continues we could be in for another early one. Once again we are planning to celebrate harvest-time with all the fabulous produce of the season with a special Harvest Farm Feast at the vineyard.
Think Grouse with Elderberries, South Coast Crab with Broad Beans & Butternut, Wild Mushrooms and Venison, plus stone fruits, Hazelnut Praline & Sticky Toffee Soufflé.
A Wine Trip to Rioja
I was due to go on a wine buying trip to Rioja led by an eminent master of wine- sadly I had to cancel. Wine is one of these limitless subjects where there is always more to learn and discover. The region of Rioja has a history going back to the 2nd century BC. Today it developing some amazing white wines along side the bold oaked reds it is so famous for. Our wine of the month in all our restaurants is...
Ever mindful of my happiness one of my daughter-in-laws provided a consolation for my missed expedition to the wineries of this ancient region - a 1000 piece jigsaw puzzle of Spain’s wine regions!
This Month's Food Champion: Mulberries
I know it is a bit unkind to feature a fruit that few people have access to, but if you ever get the opportunity, do indulgein black Mulberries - they are truly the juiciest, most unique exquisite berries you will ever taste.This has been a terrific year for them and our 200 year old tree is laden. The top 20 foot is enjoyed by garden birds and the bottom 10 foot is for us. We eat them for breakfast, make exotic desserts like the Mulberry Pavlova recipe below, freeze some, give them to friends and then indulge in an exotic Mulberry Royale.
What's in Season?
Delicious ingredients available in August from the shore, field, farm and foraging
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IN THE WILD
Apple Marigold · Grouse (starting on the Glorious 12th August) · Elderberries · First Blackberries · Wild Plums · Puffball, Chanterelle & Field Mushrooms
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FROM THE COAST
Lobster & Crab · Dabs & Flounders · Wild Bass, Mackerel & Black Bream · Plaice, Brill & Turbot
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FROM THE LAND
Tomatoes, tomatoes & tomatoes · Basil · Cucumbers & Radishes · Kent Peaches & Cherries · Lettuces · New Season Fennel · Broad & Runner beans · Barbecued Chicken, Lamb & Kidneys
Seasonal Recipes
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August Salad →
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Poached Salmon with Watercress Vichysoisse →
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Mulberry Pavlova →
The Restaurant Sign Museum
Richard has been down to the charming hut on the lake, which houses our restaurant sign museum.
The Dog & The Swan
It is a perfect summer for swimming in the vineyard lake. If you overcome the chill, the weeds, and the occasional eel, it is a blissful way to mitigate the heat of the day - damselflies flashing bright blue across the surface, reeds and wild flowers decorating the banks. I don’t swim alone, Rupert the kelpie is a keen participant and the solo swan seems glad of the company. The dog and the swan ignore me and literally take it in turns to chase one another in circles, swopping who chases who every now and then, and never quite making contact
Photography by: Simon Wheeler, Ed Dallimore, Catherine Frawley, Bridget Gladwin, Lani Gladwin and Olivia Thomas. Designed and edited by Olivia Thomas. Illustrations and copy by Peter Gladwin.