The Gladwin Family Journal
Snapshots, Reels and Observations from October, by Peter Gladwin
from our Farming, Wines, Restaurants, Pubs & Produce
That Autumnal Feeling
Wrapped up warm, pleased with ourselves for venturing out in the woods - the very best time is just before dusk, it was raining earlier but a last splash of watery sunlight is now catching the high branches; leaves are gently tumbling down in a kaleidoscope of colours and there is an exquisite smell of damp moss and hidden fungi.
Even the dogs are prepared to stay very quiet so we can hear a symphony of activity - small mammals using the last moments of the day to gather supplies for their winter horde; night creatures just beginning to venture out for their own foraging and a solitary owl’s lamentive call - is he looking for a mate or warning others off his territory?
We are the intruder, but it is such a special feeling we are reluctant to turn towards home too soon.
Sussex, in Soho
Although we call this restaurant Sussex British Bistro, once you walk through the door you could be in a back street of central Paris. Chic designer interior; intimate candlelight tables; wine label collage artwork; a central display of mature cheeses, fine wines and cognac, plus a menu to die for. It seems a million miles from the bustling streets of Soho and our team on site are ready and waiting to make you welcome.
It is our busiest time of year in the West End so we recommend you book soon:
This Month's Champion: Smoked Haddock
Such a versatile and great value piece of fish to serve- poached with spinach, as a soup, risotto, chowder or fish cake. Smoked Haddock provides great wholesome flavour and sustenance as the colder months set in.
What's in Season?
Delicious ingredients available in November from the shore, field, farm and foraging
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FROM THE COAST
Rock Samphire, Sea Purslane & Sea Aster · Haddock, Whiting & Cod · Rock Samphire, Sea Purslane & Sea Aster · Scallops, Mussels & Oysters · Brill, Halibut & Hake
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IN THE WILD
Juniper · Hairy Bitter Cress · Sweet Chestnuts & Pinenuts · Partridge, Pheasant, Moreland Grouse & Wood Pigeon · Wild Venison · Crab Apples, Rosehips, Bullace & Sloes · South Downs Black Truffles
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FROM THE LAND
Fine British Beef · New Season Leeks · Sussex Quinces · Pumpkins, Squashes · Apples & Pears · Parsnips, 3 Colours of Beets, Rainbow Carrots · Purple Sprouting Broccoli, Chard, Red & Green Kale
This Month's Recipes
Covid-19 sometimes seems like a lifetime ago, but with the recent conclusions of the inquiry it has all come flooding back. A dreadful and tragic time for many but at the same time, uniting. We were all in the same boat and the great British spirit seemed to return - clapping for the NHS, looking out for others and sharing a common plight.
One of many wonderful projects was THE LIVERY KITCHEN INITIATIVE, The City of London Livery Companies and Caterers coming together to use their resources to provide nourishing meals for hospital workers and then deprived areas in East London through the charity City Harvest.
Afterwards, I was commissioned to write The Livery Kitchen Cookbook in commemoration of the initiative. This month’s recipes are taken from that book - a credit to all the amazing people who contributed to fighting the pandemic.
Sheep on the Hillside
Wind, rain, they really don’t care and they provide 24/7 grass mowing and fertilizing. This season we actually have a queue of friends and neighbours looking for a addock make over. The sheep are moved from place to place doing their job before they settle back among the vines for the winter.
"Our Little Secret"
The early years of being a society party caterer were a whirlwind of excitement, celebrity and adventure. So much so that I avoid too much reminiscing, it barely seems real.
One day a private dinner in a palace attended by a young and eligible Lady Diana Spencer and the next, a stressed hostess instructing one of our team that although Mick Jagger and Brian Ferry were both coming to the party they were on no account to be in the same room (they apparently had a strong dislike for one another!) And there were the journeys - we would think nothing of cramming a dozen staff in the back of a van and drive 5 hours for a ball at Castle Howard in Yorkshire. The staff themselves were a combination of friends, relations and children of our elite clientele - all pressganged into service.
One of my oldest friends likes to recollect his stint as a carver serving a lavish buffet. He was trying his hardest but with limited skill and experience he was rather nervous and perspiring heavily. A small droplet of sweat rolled down from his brow then down his nose dripping directly onto the slice of ham he had just placed on a gentleman’s plate. Horrified by what he had done, but before he could even apologise, the charming mannered recipient lent forward and simply whispered - "let's keep that as our little secret."
New Wine Release
This was Gregory’s project right from the word go. He wanted to ferment a pure Chardonnay in oak and see how a Sussex wine might match up to fine white Burgundy. The first edition was based on the 2023 vintage, but blended with barrel aged reserve chardonnay wine that was 4 years older. The result was remarkable, receiving great feedback from sommeliers and wine critics with listings at eye watering prices in some very exclusive restaurants. Alas it didn’t last long and every last bottle (barring a few I might have stowed away in my own cellar) was sold within months.
We are now delighted to announce the release of a new edition Barrel Fermented Chardonnay MV. This one based around the vibrant and youthful 2025 vintage and again blended with 2019 barrel aged reserve wine to add maturity and complexity. It is therefore called a “multi-vintage” wine as opposed to non-vintage.
This wine is more powerful than it’s predecessor, 13% alcohol, fuller and richer with delicate buttered toast on the nose, yellow apple, honeydew melon and preserved lemon on the palate, with a honeyed textured finish.
Delivery will be from first week of December 2026.
Hot off the Press: SR is Heralded by Oz & Tom
Oz Clarke & Tom Surgey have been on a roadtrip through English vineyards, meeting producers and tasting a huge selection of still and sparkling wines aong the way.
In their newly released English Wine Heroes 2026 publication, Nutbourne's Sussex Reserve has been awarded a TOP TEN in West Sussex, with “A brilliant use of the Germanic grape heritage of English vineyards, imaginatively blended with Pinot Noir. Bright, juicy grape scented white wine. Gentle, lush fruit and fallen rose petals. Singed cream irresistibility - like a crème caramel just before it takes it’s golden colour.”
It's All About Soil
Before the industrial revolution soil was hugely valued in the countryside. Tilled, furrowed, even sieved by hand and far better understood - what you could grow is what you could eat. Then came the mechanisation; deep ploughing; removal of hedgerows to increase productivity; chemical weed control etc. and everything went wrong.
We are at last going back to appreciating soil as we should. Look at the Japanese - they have just launched a mission to Mars to collect just 10 grams of the stuff and even if all goes swimmingly they won't get it back until 2031!
For wine makers soil is king, the unique “terroir” of an individual wine is driven by the soil it grows in alongside the influences of climate, geography and people. Gregory works tirelessly to “improve” the soil at Nutbourne - growing complimentary cover crops within the vines, using natural animal fertilisation, minimising sprays, reducing compaction, and building nutrients.
Nutbourne Christmas Shopping Days
As a subscriber to our journal we would like to invite you to join us in the winery at Nutbourne on one of our pre-Christmas Shopping days.
This is an opportunity to taste our full range of wines including some older vintages and the new release Barrel Fermented Chardonnay. See the new prints of Bridget Gladwin’s iconic paintings and chat with the team about all that has happened in the past year and plans for the year ahead.
This event is free of charge, but numbers are limited so please go to our website to reserve your places.
Photography by: Richard Fairclough, Ed Dallimore, Catherine Frawley, Holly Farrier and Lani Gladwin. Designed and edited by Olivia Thomas. Illustrations and copy by Peter Gladwin.