The Gladwin Family Journal
Snapshots, Reels and Observations from February, by Peter Gladwin
Interior designers and brawny Sussex lads: The Pub Project is on
There is no shortage of advice when you are taking on a new pub - “I hope it won't be too Townie”, “Don’t do another of those 'gastro' pubs will you?” etc. As it says in the bible, we must strive to be “All things to all people” and we promise a warm welcome for everyone at The Black Horse in Amberley when it reopens.
For those of you who don’t know it, Amberley is a glorious un-spoilt Sussex village at the foot of the South Downs, with The Black Horse sitting in its heart. The country pub will reopen on 25th March as the latest Local & Wild enterprise, with bedrooms, bars, restaurant, garden and outdoor cooking by the Gladwin brothers.
The re-development project is now well underway, with all three brothers contributing in diametrically differing ways. Richard brings interior designers and mood boards from London, Gregory leads brawny Sussex lads with shovels and sledge hammers, whilst Oliver develops plans for his in-house bakery and Spiced Beef Dripping Candles - literally an edible candle which is lit at the table, slowly melting to become a delicious dipping sauce, accompanied by homemade sourdough. I’ve seen and tasted the trial and they are delicious!
At the moment the pub is a building site, the garden is being completely remodeled, the bedrooms refurbished and the bars and restaurant having a makeover. It will all re-open just before Easter on 25th March and you can now book rooms and tables on the new website →
I didn’t say the meat was tough, I just said I didn’t see the horse that usually stands outside.
~ WC Fields, c.1926
This Month's Food Champion: Gorse Flowers
Oliver adores primroses and is already crystallising them for desserts and dotting onto salads. Gorse flowers too are in full bloom - they provide a much needed spark of colour in an otherwise sepia winter landscape. Did you know that the vibrant yellow petals are an edible delicacy? They have the flavour of almond or coconut and the subtle scent of pineapple.
What's in Season?
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FROM THE LAND
Jerusalem Artichokes · Celeriac · Carrots · Parsnips · Baby Beets · Forced Rhubarb · Rainbow Chard · Red & Green Kale
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FROM THE COAST
Dulse Seaweed · Oysters · Hake · Gurnard · Red Mullet
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IN THE WILD
Winter Cress · Beetroot Leaves · Young Nettles · Wild Garlic · Wild Venison · Hare
Seasonal Recipes
Stone Soup
There is a delightful children’s book called Stone Soup written and illustrated by Tony Ross. We won't spoil the plot but as an overview Mother Hen outsmarts the bad, bad wolf by cooking him soup. She starts with just water and a stone then adds all sorts of lovely fresh ingredients until the soup is irresistibly delicious!
Bridget is a great soup maker, recipients ask what flavour it is and she likes to shock with her honesty. The list might include cabbage, potato & carrots from last Sunday: the grandchildren’s left over rice, peas and pasta; stock from the chicken, foraged wild herbs etc. She was listening in on the story book reading with our grandchildren and I suspect a large pebble might now be a new addition!
Curling
A slippery chess championship
The Winter Olympics have been a welcome distraction during February - with daily BBC coverage we have been drawn into following the extreme sports. The skiing and snowboard acrobatics against a night sky blizzard take your breath away, and a pair of Brits fastest in the world descending an ice shoot headfirst on a tea tray says it all. But for me the highlight was the Curling - is it a slippery game of chess played on ice? I had no idea this extraordinary ancient sport was quite so strategic, not just anticipating the opponents next move but planning several plays ahead. The skill of sliding the stone seems to be taken as read, it is the challenge of out thinking the other team that counts - I was mesmerized!
★★★ from the SRA
Our Local & Wild Restaurants have some great news we are incredibly proud to share: they have all been officially awarded 3 Stars by the Sustainable Restaurant Association - the highest rating posslble.
You can enjoy 'Food Made Good' at The Shed, Notting Hill; Rabbit, British Bistro; The Pig’s Ear, Chelsea; Sussex, Soho; and The Black Lamb in Wimbledon Village.
Read the full details of our award here →
A Perfect Mothering Sunday Gift
Vineyard Tour & Sparkling Afternoon Tea Voucher, £60 per person
On selected Saturday afternoons this Summer we will host a special vineyard experience. Arrive at our platform overlooking the South Downs and enjoy a delicious glass of Nutty Vintage. We will welcome you, introduce Nutbourne and then take a guided walk through the vines to the rustic wine lodge for a sumptuous, seated afternoon tea with Nutty Wild pink sparkling.
Mothering Sunday at Local & Wild
Sunday 15th March
This is one of the busiest days in the year in all our restaurants - even The Shed in Notting Hill will be opening up to celebrate, with a special Sunday roast. This year Oliver has whipped up an indulgent treat for dessert: a Torched Marshmallow Chocolate Tart, with rich dark chocolate, a crisp base and a lightly torched marshmallow topping.
Bacchus Day
Tuesday 17th March
Yes, there really is an official Bacchus day. Whether it’s a day to honour the ancient Greek god, or one the UK wine industry chooses to promote our most popular still white wine variety, or just an excuse for a Bacchanalian orgy, I don’t know. Whichever, it’s a great occasion to try our fragrant, aromatic, floral, dry white wine- Nutbourne Bacchus 2023, it slips down a treat.
Beef is Back
Our very own local beef is back on the menu - the freezers at the vineyard cellar door have been restocked with juicy steaks of fillet, rump and sirloin, and diced shin, as well as mince so you can make your own burgers and ragu.
We think it’s a perfect pairing with Nutbourne Pinot Noir - why not pick up a bottle of our still red to go with your steak dinner.
Slippy Stiles
Once you are over 70 the design of each country stile that you are obliged to climb over becomes a point of interest! A good stile requires evenly spaced, angled steps; secure footings and a raised post to hold onto! Local authorities appear to differ in their approach to these important country obstacles. When we also had a farm in East Sussex, we frequently received letters telling us about a remote crossing between fields saying the stile was a bit wobbly or the wrong height - “would we please confirm the date this will be put right!” Here in West Sussex the byways authority considers each stile to be their own property and woe-betide if you even add an extra nail.
Photography by: LC Creatives, Ed Dallimore, Catherine Frawley, Holly Farrier, Oliver Gladwin and Olivia Thomas.
Designed and edited by Olivia Thomas. Illustrations and copy by Peter Gladwin.