The Gladwin Family Journal
Snapshots, Reels and Observations from April, by Peter Gladwin
What a glorious spring we have been enjoying. On an evening walk over the top of the hill, the tall poplar trees are just coming into leaf, some tipped with lime green and others a deep dusty pink, glowing in the warm evening sunlight. Above, a pair of kestrels gently circle then occasionally swoop down to snatch their tiny quarry from the lush grass.
There seem to be more birds of prey on display this spring - lots of red kites now reside in our part of Sussex, including kestrels, buzzards and even a pair of White Tailed Eagles have been spotted along the Arun Valley. Gregory tells me that less deep cultivation in the fields and more wild flowers and undergrowth, breeds more small mammals like voles, field mice, shrews and water rats. These in turn attract magnificent birds of prey to make it their home. It is the circle of life.
In this Month’s Journal:
- We share some of the learning curve of running our country pub
- News of the first re-used wine bottles in the UK
- We extol the virtues of Spring Lamb and other delicious ingredients to cook in Oliver’s great recipes
- Bridget new canvases celebrate the South Downs and the diversity it offers
...and I go on about dogs, squirrels and the rest
Doggie Heaven
I saw a couple enter our pub the other day without a dog in tow! The crowded bar clientele looked askance “who were these unaccompanied human beans?” and “where was the potential for a ruckus under the table or the dragging of a lead to create a lethal trip hazard?” Somehow the unaccompanied adults were served and managed to secured a table out of the firing line but I am sure they won't make the same mistake again of attempting to enter a Sussex pub
without the supervision of a 4 legged friend!
When we set about opening a country pub we actually had no idea that for every customer there would be the need to accommodate at least an equal number of dogs! And of course, each one is perfectly behaved and it is other people’s dogs that are the problem! We are learning fast - expensive dog beds for the bedrooms, and a strict set of rules to stop our furry friends taking over.
Now don’t get me started on the actual paying customers. We were also unaware that Sussex had so many experts in cooking and hospitality ready to offer an opinion. Fortunately Richard is a world expert at smiling, nodding and thanking every donor for sharing their guidance.
Forgive my cynicism. One person even told me that they had spent 10 long years in hospitality! I didn’t like to mention my 55 years and I suppose I am still counting.
This Month's Food Champion: Spring Lamb
Lamb is undoubtedly the best red meat for this time of year. It compliments so many other wonderful ingredients of the season including asparagus, new potatoes, wild garlic and so much more.
Gregory’s “vineyard” sheep begin their growing year out on the water meadows along the river Arun. From there, in mid-Summer, they come to the vineyard where they do the work of 10 men trimming the leaves off the lower half of the vines to open the berries up to the sunlight. Strict timing is required, while the grape bunches remain hard and unappetizing the sheep leave them alone but once we get to August, the flock must be moved out of temptation's way. They return to the vineyard in the autumn once the grape crop has been gathered and spend the winter grazing the vines, hedgelines, wild flowers and lakesides.
It’s not a bad life but right now last year's flock are gracing the tables at all our restaurants, fulfilling their destiny.
What's in Season?
Delicious ingredients available this month from the shore, field, farm and foraging
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IN THE WILD
Wild Garlic Flowers & Capers · Wood Pigeon · Three Cornered Leeks · Chickweed · Wild Fennel · Lemon Verbena
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FROM THE COAST
Seabream · Samphire and Sea Kale · South Coast Squid · Gurnard
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FROM THE LAND
Asparagus · Radishes · Purple Cauliflower · Purple Sprouting Broccoli · Spring Onions
Seasonal Recipes
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May Salad: Wild Fennel, Purple Cauliflower, Asparagus & Quail Eggs →
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Barabecued Lamb Brochettes with Dates, Pistachio and Honey
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Elderflower & Lemon Verbena Boodle
A Squirrel Horde
It’s the stuff of children’s storybooks.
There is a large and very beautiful crab apple tree in our garden just coming into blossom. It is old and has a hollow trunk with a small access hole at the base. Last autumn yielded a magnificent crop and the small red fruits have been and slowly ripening and decorative all winter. Now the new blossoms are pushing the crab apples to the ground only for a diligent squirrel to gather them and fill the hollow trunk with his horde.
Reused Glass Bottles
A great friend of mine has dedicated his life to the environment, both in his career and his passion. For as long as I have been a wine producer he has lamented the fact that in his childhood we got thruppence back on a Tizer bottle or a shilling for a whole wooden case of "Worthington E" pints. He lobbies me about re-using wine bottles at Nutbourne -“Why can't we bring back the empties and get them refilled?” I have to explain about sterilization, health and safety and the innumerable number of different shapes and styles of bottle wine comes in.
Well at last it has happened. Alas not in Britain yet, but the French Government have backed a Europe wide initiative to collect, clean, test and repackage wine bottles. I believe Nutbourne is the first producer in the UK to import and use them.
The energy savings are enormous, even recycled glass requires huge amounts of energy to make new bottles. Over half the environmental impact of wine production is the glass bottle and now at last we are using second hand ones!
Sowing Wildflowers
Gregory has been sowing a mix of insect-friendly wildflowers and complimentary crops between the vines, in every other row, to support pollinators, boost biodiversity and naturally improve soil health and structure. A charming little video of the tractor in action is on Instagram.
Sparkling Afternoon Tea Tours
New at Nutbourne this Summer, enjoy a leisurely guided stroll through the vines before a sumptuous sparkling afternoon tea in the wine lodge.
Saturday 23rd May
Saturday 4th July
Saturday 1st August
Chelsea in Bloom
Both Rabbit, Kings Road and The Pigs Ear in Old Church Street are joining in with the local Chelsea Flower Show celebrations again this year. Fabulous floral displays in this year’s “Out of this World” theme, a glorious seasonal menu and delicious dishes to eat away from the crowds.
From 18th to 24th May
On the Menu in London
In our London restaurants & pub we're tucking into:
- Smoked Cauliflower with Tahini &
Chichester Beetroot Salsa - Line-caught Stone Bass, Peperonata & Capers
- London Buratta with Asparagus
- Wild Fallow Deer Croquettes
...and so much more at The Shed in Notting Hill; Rabbit British Bistro on the King's Road; Sussex in Soho; The Black Lamb in Wimbledon Village and The Pigs Ear in Chelsea
Weekend BBQs at The Black Horse
Our outside kitchen is now firing up from Friday to Sunday, serving delicious grilled meats, fish, seafood and vegetables cooked on the open fires.
Wine of the Month: Blush
Great British Rosé Week is coming up in May - we're so proud of Nutbourne Blush that we'll be celebrating our delicious English rosé all month in London and Sussex.
Delightfully dry, it is made from a combined pressing of our Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir, with just enough skin contact to give a lovely pale pink hue. With gentle wild strawberry on the nose and soft sherbet on the palate.
Exploring the South Downs
There is much to enjoy and celebrate in the South Downs. From rolling fields, scarred with chalk, dew ponds, ancient castles, off-road cycling andpaddle boarding along the rivers.
Bridget’s latest series of paintings (shortly to be on display at the vineyard and The Black Horse, Amberley), span the breadth and the beauty of this amazing area, with psychedelic neon colour.
Peace and tranquility in the Bluebell Woods
The bluebell is the sweetest flower
That waves in summer air;
Its blossoms have the mightiest power
To soothe my spirit’s care.
Emily Bronte 1838
Photography by: Ed Dallimore, Catherine Frawley, Holly Farrier, Peter Gladwin, Lani Gladwin and Olivia Thomas.
Designed and edited by Olivia Thomas. llustrations and copy by Peter Gladwin.